Improvement in moccasin boots and shoes



P. KELLEHER &J. c. RANDLETT.

Moccasin Bootsand Shoes. N0. 122,030. Patente d Dec.i9.I871- PATRICK KELLEHEB AND JAMES QRANDLETT, 0F FANGCR, MAINE.

IMPROVEMENT IN MOCCASIN BOOTS AND SHOES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 122,030, dated December 19, 1871.

T 0 all whom it may concern:

Be it known that we, JAMES C. RANDLETT and PATRICK KELLEHER, both of Bangor, in the county of Penobscot and State of Maine, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in the Manufacture of Moccasin-Boots and Shoes orBoot and Shoe Packs; and we do hereby declare that the following is a full and exact description thereof, reference being had to the accompanying drawing andto the letters of reference marked thereon.

The nature of our invention consists in so cutting the leather or material of which the packs are manufactured as to be able to do all the sewing of the upper parts by machinery instead of by hand, the latter being the method necessarily employed at present; and it also enables us to improve the shape, and to so change the position of some of the seams as to add very much to the durability of the packs.

In the accompanying drawing, Figure l is a boot-pack made after our improved patterns, showing when the pieces are sewed together to form the complete boot-pack. Fig. 2 is the front of the leg. Fig. 3 is the back of the leg. Fig. 4 is the vamp of the boot-pack. Fig. 5 is the sole. Fig. 6 is the quarter of the boot-pack. Fig. 7 is the vamp of the shoe-pack. Fig. 8 is a shoe-pack, showing how it is put together. Fig. 9 is the quarter of the shoe-pack. Fig. 10 is the top of the shoe-pack. Fig. 11 is a tap. Fig. 12 is a heel.

The relative position of the parts is shown in Figs. 1 and 8. The leg of the boot-pack is made in two pieces, A B, Fig. 1, allowing two flat seams, both of which are stitched with two rows of stitches, and the leg is stiffened and stands up better with a seam on each side than it does with a single seam at one side or at the back of the leg. There is also a free selection of stock in relation to the service it is designed to sustain when the leg is made in two pieces, as A and B; but the principal benefit is found in the fact that the seams can be made flat and stitched by machinery, thus avoiding all hand-work. The quarter 0 is formed in one piece, crossing and passing forward of the seam in the leg and joining directly onto the vamp, and forming a flat seam both at its junction with the leg and with the vamp, allowing both of these seams to be stitched by machinery. The vamp D is also stitched to the front part of the leg A by similar flat seams, all the seams being flat lap-seams, thus allowing them all to be closed by sewingmachines, and avoiding hand-work altogether in sewing these parts of the pack. The vamp is different from all other Vamps in not having the sides run back to form part of the quarter; but the sides of this vamp pass directly across the foot, simply obliquing a'little toward the rear in passing down the sides of the foot, thus simplifyin g the seams and making it possible to perform all the sewing by machinery. The upper parts having been all joined together the edges are turned over a last, and the sole is fitted on and held on to the upper parts by nails or brads until it is sewed through and through, making this also a flat seam and giving a good shape to the pack. A piece of the same material, and of the same thickness as the uppers, is fitted in on the inside of the sole between the edges of the uppers to level up and make a smooth bearing for the bottom of the foot. The vamp of the shoe-pack is cut straight across, and does not run back to form any part of the quarter. It is slit down a short distance for the purpose of getting the shoe on and off easily; but when laced up passes nearly straight across the foot. The shape of the different parts of both the boot and the shoe-pack allows the manufacturer to select his stock with reference to the wear and tear of the particular part for which the stock is to be used, and thereby economize the use of the most expensive stock; and the shape of the parts and the adoption of the flat lap-seam enables all the seams to be closed by machinery. A heel and tap may be added at pleasure, either by sewing or pegging.

The different parts of this boot and shoe pack are designed and arranged expressly with a view to enable all the seams to be closed by machinery and dispense with hand-work altogether in the sewing, even to sewing on the soles, and for this purpose all the patterns have been simplified and the lap-seams adopted; and it is believed that there never was a pack made heretofore in which lap-seams were used exclusively, nor in which all the seams, even to sewing on the soles, could be accomplished by machinery; but by the use of these patterns and the lap-seams every seam may be closed on a machine, thereby reducing the cost of manufacturing very materially,

and allowing the thick, heavy, and expensive leather to be used for soles, and the lighter and less expensive leather can be used for uppers.

hat I claim as my invention, and W181! to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. A moccasin-boot o-r boot-pack formed of the parts A B C D E, cut as shown and described, and joined together by fiat lap-seams.

2. A moccasin-boot or pack with the leg formed of two pieces, A and B, united by two lapped seams, one on each side of the leg, as shown and described.

3. The quarter 0 of a moccasin-pack, out in the form shown and described, and formed entire in one piece, for use as specified.

4. A shoe-pack with a quarter cut in the form shown in Fig. 9, and formed in one piece, and running around the heel and forward to the vamp H, as specified.

5. The combination, in a shoe-pack, of the parts.

F, G, H, and E, such parts being united together by flat lapseams.

PATRICK KELLEHER. Witnesses: J. C. BANDLETT.

FRED. H. (looms,

HORACE S. SMITH. (16) 

